help a newb edit a theme

Hey, everybody – 2 questions

1) ‘In theme editor’ underneath the code, it says “If this file were writable you could edit it.” Can I edit this theme? (I’m using Back in Black 2 1.5.3 by Frederic de Villamil)

2) How the hell do you edit? Everyone seems to be telling me that wordpress is WYSIWYG, but all I see is code. I’m a hardcore n00b. I’m looking for drag and drop kinda stuff…. I don’t know the first thing about css, php, mysql, any of that.

Any help or links to tutorials would be a major help.

Thanks