I use both WP and DW a LOT.
I develop a design in DW, using xhtml and css (and js, etc as needed)…. when I have a design working, layout wise – css layout, that is – and I know it is x-browser compatible, I move on to WP development.
I set up the wp site, set up my template files, from header.php, etc to footer.php, etc, then put my xhtml/css markup in where needed.
No, you won’t see much in design view once you are working on the php files – sadly. If you want this (as I do) GET VOCAL WITH ADOBE! It’s been mentioned as a possible feature, but requests for such functionality (understanding basic WP functions, such as get_header(), etc) are what drives Adobe to improve the product.
There is a DW extension that adds a WP insert bar for wp functions (tagstention, just google it) that is useful.
To get vocal with Adobe, add your request via their bug submission form (https://www.adobe.com/cfusion/mmform/index.cfm?name=wishform)
and state your case for wanting WordPress support in Dreamweaver. I have.
So, to summarize, DW works well to develop a layout (static) then in code view, to develop the php and ftp files as needed. I also use it to edit the db sql file if moving from one domain to another.
hth – and yes, looking at other themes is one way to do things, as is (very important) reading the codex documentation.