There’s a WYSIWYG editor for posts, but I’m not aware of one for templates yet.
You have the option of installing stuff locally to play around with PHP and MySQL databases to get some things done, but I haven’t done that in ages.
I know the frustration of early WP work. Luckily, with the advent of 1.5 and the Codex things have become much easier. In about two months time I’ve made huge leaps in learning how to get things done.
What I recommend is starting with CSS. Google some free CSS tutorials, and play around with the style sheet first. Once you know how you want to “block out” your website you can hit the codex for tons of great info or even just ask around this board.
It is definitely tough at first but, at least for me, learning the ins and outs of WP is as much fun as actually blogging with it.